Mexico Report: Winter Itinerary Planning

As 2024 dawns, winter conditions are beginning to creep down the West Coast. But that doesn’t mean all the Mexico-bound boaters departed the U.S. with the masses on November 1.

The only thing magic about November 1 is that many U.S. yacht insurance providers start covering their boat owners’ itineraries that extend farther south than Ensenada. That’s when hurricane season (June 1 through October 31) is supposed to be over. Key words are “supposed to.” Of course, Mother Nature doesn’t read our calendar.

So, if you’re still stateside, complete your last few boat projects while monitoring weather forecasts for southbound vessels on the outside of Baja. This 800-mile coast offers very few shelters from hurricanes. Let’s look at some itineraries.

What about the Baja Ha Ha?

Sadly, 2023 may have seen the last Baja Ha Ha (See photo.), because founder Richard Spindler retired. For the past 24 years, this collection of 100 to 150 cruising sailboats has cautiously planned to ignore the November 1 date, because they often departed San Diego harbor in late October. Was this wise?

As a group, the Ha Ha also bypassed Ensenada, where southbound yachts are required to stop and officially check into Mexico. That stop would have allowed sail boaters time to monitor reports in case a late-season hurricane or tropical storm was coming up the Baja Peninsula. With a cruising speed of maybe 4 to 8 knots, sailboats can’t outrun hurricanes. I think an itinerary that avoids Ensenada is not only illegal, it’s not wise.

The Ha Ha always planned to stop and rest a few days inside Turtle Bay, which is a wrap-around hurricane hole located half way down Baja. So, there was at least some method to the Ha Ha’s itinerary madness.

Dash South Mainland

Here’s a successful itinerary for long-range cruisers, much loved because it sets you free from winter’s icy grasp as quickly as possible, delivers you into tropical bliss.

As soon as your bell rings after November 1, plan to dash down Baja with stops only at Turtle Bay and Los Cabos – or not. From the south end of Baja, cross over to the mainland and turn right. Now you’ll coast hop as far south as you’re planning to go in Mexico, such as to Zihuatanejo or even Huatulco. When you’ve reached your southern apex, stop and make your big U-turn.

Now, begin “gunk holing” slowly back northward in full cruiser mode – FCM. Stop and explore any of those resort ports and intimate coves you dashed past earlier, this time staying for a week or two at anchor. Check off all the legendary cruising stops of Mexico’s Gold Coast, such as Zihuatanejo, Ixtapa, Manzanillo, Barra Navidad, Chamela, Tenacatita, Yelapa, Puerto Vallarta, Nuevo Vallarta, La Cruz, Punta Mita, Chacala, Jaltemba, San Blas, Isla Isabela and Mazatlan. (Acapulco has not yet recovered from October’s Hurricane Otis.)

Winter Loop for Sea of Cortez

Use this itinerary (See chart.) for winter cruising season after returning from your dash down the mainland. Start at La Paz, where you’ll do a major provisioning and could haul out for maintenance if needed. La Paz supports the largest gringo liveaboard community in Mexico.

After topping off in La Paz, cruise slowly 120 miles up the Baja side of the Sea of Cortez to the sheltered harbor and marina at Puerto Escondido. This is the best stretch of cruising grounds in Mexico, IMHO, so go slowly to savor dozens of pristine anchorages, uninhabited islands and friendly fishing villages. The magnificent Sierra de la Giganta rises up and guards your port side along this magical stretch.

Marina Puerto Escondido (See photo.) is a cruising hub providing moorings, slips, fuel, eats, boat yard services, and access to flights and provisioning at Loreto. This is a hurricane hole, but cruisers spend weeks even in winter exploring Danzante, Carmen and Coronado islands. After Loreto, continue 110 n.m. northwest visiting San Juanico, Pulpito and other pristine anchorages en route to Bahia Concepcion.

This 30-mile long “Sea within the Sea” encompasses everything from remote Kivi Beach in the south, Requeson’s T-shaped peninsula, famous Coyote Bay, the river town of Mulege up to Punta Chivato in the north. Eventually boats come to anchor or dock at the small but enclosed port of Santa Rosalia below its beautifully restored 1880’s French mining town. Although the ferry over to Guaymas is closed temporarily, the small Fonatur marina has fuel and slips. Santa Rosalia is a good place from which to explore nearby cave paintings.

Yacht Crossing Zone

Here’s where we cross the Sea of Cortez, because it’s only 75 n.m. over to San Carlos and Guaymas, Sonora, the most significant cruising grounds and hurricane hole in the mid Sea of Cortez. After exploring this gorgeous region, turn southeast and head down the mainland coast to the small marina (See photo.) at Topolobampo, Sinaloa. This is the best and safest place to berth your boat and catch the historic train, El Chepo, up into the Copper Canyon. Make it a 5-day adventure for one or two couples: dramatic round-trip train ride, mountain hotel, hikes through pinon woods and a visit to the native Tarahumara village.

After the Copper Canyon’s natural awe, shift to glamour amid Mazatlan’s four marinas and six boat yards on jungle lagoons with parrots in the palms. Soak up historic downtown’s Victorian ambiance at hip Plazuela Machado (See photo.) and Peralta Theatre. Mazatlan supports the second largest gringo liveaboard community in Mexico.

If the weather is calm, jump slightly off shore for a tentative stop at Isla Isabela National Park, the tiny island sanctuary for nesting Frigate Birds and Blue Footed Boobies. You can walk real close to Frigate nests, but don’t step on the Boobies. Yet if bad weather or overcrowding won’t let you safely anchor in Isabela’s South Cove or below Las Monas, take a pass.

Instead continue southeast toward Banderas Bay because you’ll find overnight stops at San Blas, Matanchen Bay, Chacala and Guayabitos.

Punta Mita Light marks the northwest entrance to huge Banderas Bay, then La Cruz and Nuevo Vallarta are both nice marina destinations along the North Shore, as we work our way toward Puerto Vallarta’s municipal harbor. The mountainous South Shore of Banderas Bay contains seven romantic getaway anchorages tucked into jungle fringed coves.

Closing the Winter Loop, we cross back to southern Baja, about 277 n.m. from Punta Mita to San Jose del Cabo.

The Islas Marias new nature preserve could provide safe overnight anchorage within sight of this vital offshore crossing route, but so far, only Puerto Balleto is open, only to registered visitors arriving by Navy ferry from Mazatlan or San Blas, only for weekends. In 2024, I hope to be able to report specific details on how private boat owners can legally stop here too.